Pasos de San Martín 2019

The Garnacha is a variety which seems to possess a thousand facets, a grape which seems more amazing and enchanting by the day. Depending upon the terroir, the climate, the producer's hand..., it offers such distinct, magical wines. Here is one of them. The first point to appreciate about Pasos de San Martín is the craftsmanship of an excellent producer —and not because it says so on the label, it's noticeable— and that fruit powerfulness which will still be there to delight us in years to come, with an even more exquisite refinement, as per normal in the wines which Artadi produces from old vineyards. Before the tasting starts, we should be aware that Artadi makes two Garnacha wines in Navarra, conceived as village wines: Santa Cruz de Artazu and Pasos de San Martín, two distinct Garnachas, as we pointed out at the beginning, with the first more inclined to black fruit, and the second to red; with Santa Cruz having a denser profile, and Pasos de San Martín a lighter one. Two highly recommendable wines, however we shall focus here on Pasos de San Martín. Fruit concentration in Artadi wines is usual, and Pasos de San Martín is no exception; it's a good idea to decant it and pour carefully, especially whilst young. This Garnacha is a lovely colour in the glass, looking more like a Tempranillo than a Garnacha: somewhere between a dark ruby and a blood-red shade, and very bright. On the nose, there's an outburst of fresh fruit aromas, mainly of red fruits (strawberries, redcurrants) and some blueberries, wafts of candied fruit, which appear swathed in refreshing whiffs of scrubland, sweet juicy hints of blood oranges, violet-scented and gentle yet penetrating menthol notes. The fruit takes centre stage, but it is complex overall and an absolute delight, on a background of cedar wood and tobacco which reveal the quality of the oak woods used in ageing. On the palate it is equally vigorous and intense, powerful, with very noticeable acidity and a pleasant sweetness that is most inviting. This is a very well-balanced wine, full of life, and fruit-forward above all; you won't want to swallow: it's a pure fruit bonbon on the tongue.